On my way home from another visit to
Soroako, I have some extra time and decide to go touring for a day around Makassar, an old port city in southwestern Sulawesi. I hire a driver who takes me first to a fort that has been turned into a museum, and then to the harbor, where I wander through a couple of the small wooden freighters that carry cargo between islands. One boat is loaded with lumber harvested from a Sulawesi forest, the other is bringing pink plastic stacking chairs from Java. Next, we drive north and east out of the city and, after an hour and a half, arrive at the village of Bantimurung, known for its waterfalls and butterflies. When I get out of the car, I am immediately approached by three small boys selling butterflies, 50,000 rupiah ($5) a box (a typical adult wage in Indonesia is around 30,000 rupiah a day). These boys are the size of five-year-olds, but they must be around seven or eight. Each box contains about a dozen butterflies, flattened, glued to cards, and wrapped in plastic. They look very dead. I say 'maybe later', and walk to the entrance gate of the park with the boys trailing behind. I pay the admission fee (5,000 rupiah for foreigners) and start walking up the little valley. Somehow, the boys are still with me. Soon they are joined by a friend, an older boy of maybe 14, and they chat together in Indonesian. I ask some questions and discover that the older one, Rizal, is fluent in English. He tells me about a cave I can explore a kilometer upstream, and we set off. The valley rapidly becomes a narrow canyon, with vertical sides of fragile limestone covered with vegetation so thick the sky is not visible. We go past a small waterfall—the water is flowing down a rock face against which are leaning a few Indonesian girls wearing their street clothes, keeping cool. A little further on, we come upon an old man tending a flashlight stand. I rent a flashlight, and we soon come to the cave entrance. Leading my band of four, I enter the first room, at the far end of which is a tiny passageway through which I maneuver, with not too much difficulty (I'm wearing flip flops), into a second, loftier room. The floor is damp but mostly firm, with a few wetter and squishier spots. Rizal begins to describe various noteworthy features. Near the top of a sloping wall there is a small stalagmite tightly and heavily wrapped in black plastic. Rizal says that it's for making wishes. You're supposed to wrap a piece of plastic around the knob and make your wish. When the wish comes true, you then come back and remove your piece of plastic (though how you identify it, and what you do with all the other pieces of plastic that have been wrapped over it in the meantime, I don't learn...but there is no shortage of wishing material—small black plastic bags are used by shopkeepers everywhere I've gone in Indonesia, and it's hard to go very far, even in a park devoted to waterfalls and butterflies, without finding a discarded one). At the innermost extremity of the room there is a small alcove just big enough for one smallish person to sit in. Rizal tells me that in that spot the King of Bantimurung sat for forty days and forty nights. I say, and what happened then?
—Then?
—What was the result of his sitting for forty days and forty nights?
—His mind became clear.
—What was his religion? How long ago did this happen?
—It was long ago, before there were any of the religions we have now. I don't know how many years. My grandfather told me these stories.
The last thing he shows me is a small pool of water in another recess in the wall. He says, "The story is that this is holy water. It's said that if you wash your face in it you will always look young." On the way out, my flashlight dies, and we are briefly in darkness. Rizal magically produces two small flashlights from somewhere on his person, and with their dim light we find our way slowly back to the entrance. Outside, I ask Rizal where the best place to swim is. He tells me there is a lake another couple of hundred meters upstream. We pass one pool which looks beautiful, but which R. says is extremely dangerous because of a whirlpool that sucks people under—several a year, according to him. We climb over some jagged boulders and come to a small lake. There are trees leaning over the water, and something rustling in their branches. Rizal says they are monkeys, and then I see a few of them as they forage for fruit. The water looks OK, but the lake bottom is mucky (no wonder, with all that monkey shit dropping from the trees). As we walk back down the trail, the boys reopen their boxes and restart their sales pitches. When we get to the entrance gate, I tell them I won't buy their butterflies, but I'll pay each of them for guiding me that day. I give Rizal 50,000 rupiah, 30,000 to Susri, the next-oldest boy (with whom Rizal had frequently consulted before answering my questions), and 25,000 to the two youngest. Susri remonstrates briefly with Rizal, and I ask R. what the problem is. Rizal says, smiling, "He thinks he should get as much as I did."